May 23 and 24 - She Said

Thursday, May 24

Fownhope to Hereford

The Green Man, our inn in Fownhope is a collection of 17th and 18th century buildings that have been refurbished to a high standard by the current owners, a local Fownhope family. The decor is contemporary, which could be bad in structures so old, but they have done a fantastic job, using reclaimed wood for doors and tables and decorating in a minimalist way so the the architecture of the buildings is the highlight. We ate in their dining room last night and loved it - R had swordfish and I had scallops. So happy that British food has come so far.

On the way out of town this morning, we stopped at the church to check out the original stocks, in front of the church yard and near the intersection of two main (for this country area) roads. The stocks are 16th century and one of the few surviving sets left in the UK. They were used from the 16th century through 1820 (!) to punish "anti-social behavior." They were situated by the church and crossroads to inflict maximum humiliation as this spot had the most horse and foot traffic.

We had perfect walking weather today - 60's to start and overcast. The walk started through fragrant, bright yellow fields of rape, the basis of canola oil and a favorite of farmers in the UK. We also enjoyed varied terrain today - fields, country lanes, farm tracks, riverside paths and finally, walking into Hereford, sidewalks and a city park.

We passed a farm today that had a collection of many vintage junk/rusted cars in the yard. They were lined up next to a ramshackle shed and really looked like large-scale outdoor art. The eye of the beholder...

We ate toast and jam on a park bench with a view of the river and the Hereford Cathedral. A short walk from there to our accommodation for tonight - the Norfolk House - were we are now clean and ensconced in luxury. A very lucky life.

7.5 miles

Wednesday, May 23

Ross-on-Wye to Fownhope

We left RonW through town - a very well preserved 16th/17th century town. Lots of Tudor style houses. And, of course, lots of Union Jack's flying in prep for the big bash June 4/5 (Diamond Jubilee.) All pubs and restaurants and town halls are advertising their plans for the Jubilee - champagne parties, picnics, special doings all around.  We'll be in Chester for the actual Jubilee but will be in London on the 6th so I'm suet we will experience much residual pomp.  Bank Holidays (like our 3-day holidays) are back to back because of the regular Bank Holiday at the end of May and the additional one for the Jubilee. Sort of like a harmonic convergence - only happens once in a blue moon. Everyone is wrapping vacations around these two weekends so we anticipate an uptick in crowds (ha! This path is so obscure - we see maybe 2-3 people all day long. And, none on the actual path; we see a random farmer in a field or fisherman on the river.)

The fish that the River Wye is known for are salmon. This is interesting since no restaurant or inn has advertised local, fresh-caught salmon on their menus. Curious.

Back to today's walk: On this stretch of the Wye, there are dozens of swans.  This morning we saw  small flocks flying - quite something. They are big, elegant birds.  They fly in perfect wing-beat symmetry with each other, creating a loud but pleasant air movement sound. I have never seen swans fly before and I loved it. Very graceful.

The countryside is  very bucolic (R says this is much better than the countryside being very bubonic. There is actually a Plague Cross in the church yard in Ross-on-Wye, erected in the 1600's to acknowledge and honor the 500 residents of the town who died from the plague and were buried nearby without benefit of coffins or services.)

A note from yesterday (and today, too) - East Coasters reading this blog will identify - this is exploding spring now in Wales, and the lilacs are tremendous.  Whenever we pass a farmhouse or country house that has lilacs blooming near the road or path, I bury my face in them and am instantly transported back to CT and my childhood.  Also saw some luscious peonies today. All flowers are bursting - after almost a month of rain (our innkeeper tonight said they had hail last week!) everything is loving these last 3 days of hot sunshine.

For some unknown reason, Wales and England (the trail goes between the two at this point) seem to be obsessed with Teepees. Whenever we pass or see caravan parks, campsites or kid's sleep away camps, there are Teepees set up. We have even seen them in the woods (very Blair Witch Project-ish.)  Eventually, I'll need to ask someone about this as there are just too many of them for it to be a random wacko's kick.

Today's Dead Animal Count: 3
1 duck
1 mouse
1 snake
(Also, a wounded pheasant)

We walked through a field of 8 bulls today.  We went slow and steady so as not to annoy or attract them. They each stared us down in their turn. We considered eating our lunch at the far end of that field, but opted instead for a wooden bridge in the shade on the other side of a fence. This was fortuitous, as a few minutes into our lunch we heard, then saw, the bulls running the length of the field at the urging of their farmer's ATV. That would have been a shock and probably caused a bit of indigestion.

We climbed to our first neolithic hill fort of the walk - they are ubiquitous in the UK countryside and not all that interesting. A fortified mound on the top of a hill. Duh. Where else would you build a fort to avoid surprise attacks?

Through a woodland conservation area (fallow deer abounding,) down a side path into town (landed in a bit of a maze of courts and manors) and up to the excellent Green Man Inn, our accommodations for tonight.  2 pints, showers and footrubs and all is right with the world. (When my feet hurt, R says we are on The Magical Misery Tour.)

11 miles.

See below for the photos for May 23 and 24