Saturday, May 26, 2012

Monnington-on-Wye to Hay-on-Wye, May 26

She Said:
Everything looks better in the morning.  Even though the Portway Inn was a bit disappointing, it still had a good, country quirk:  during earlier renovations, previous innkeepers had discovered 40 horse skulls in a gap beneath the main room floor. The room was used long ago for country folk dancing - Morris Dancing - and the dancers put the skulls there to create a hollow, clattering and vibrating sound as they danced above.  This, supposedly enhanced their dancing experience.

Off we walked into another warm (hot) and long day.

As we passed Monnington Court, we turned onto the "Monnington Walk", a mile long, straight and manicured, shaded by trees, bridle and carriage path that Sir Thomas Tomkyns (then the owner of Monnington Court) build as a tribute to...himself. He was very happy to have been elected to Parliament and wanted to honor the occasion.

A sadder plaque, a few miles on near a bridge over the River Wye, honored young Stuart Thompson, aged 17 yrs., who was "a good swimmer, drowned in shallow waters by the currents." Nature will win out.

Another country church - this one holding a small fair (very small - 5 tables, max) to help raise funds for a new church hall kitchen.  Ancient people in attendance.  After the church, a hellish, steep climb up a tiny, paved road.  Good payoff, though - spectacular panoramic views of the wide countryside.

Another climb, equally hellish, to Woola Farm and a payoff of another sort: this farm looked to be run by three generations - the father, who talked with us about his sheep (he was penning them for "treatment" to keep them healthy - we walked through the penned area, he helped us, and it was a fun experience to be in the middle of 50 sheep!), the son and grandson who were mending a nearby fence, and another grandson who was herding on his ATV with his sheepdogs.  They were all friendly and bright and talkative and seemed as happy to talk with us as we were to talk with them.  As we left their farm, we climbed over a style and right into a field of full-bloom bluebells.  Magical.

Down the hill and our first look at the Brecon Beacons in the distance.  Looming and large.

Our approach to Hay-on-Wye was through a golf course, which felt heavenly to our feet.  Unusual for a golf course, was a whimsical sculpture of reeds and wood (see photo below) - I just love that large scale outdoor art.

Dead Animal Count - 2
1 snake
1 squirrel

12 miles


He Said:
A long day again (12 miles total), with 1500' of climbing thrown in.
I think we have walked for at least 75 miles now, about 65 miles remain.

These trails are now tougher than before; they have ruts, pot holes, mud, nettles, and other obstacles.
So, even though the area and scenery are beautiful, we need to pay close attention to where we place our feet, and actually stop in order to look around.  The trails are lonely too, I do not remember seeing any other walkers today.  As a result, we seem to be the first walkers through many areas with new spring grasses and flowers growing up to the knees or even waist.
Today, we walked from England into Wales, where we will travel for the remainder of our walk.

Here are some photos from today.

The Portway Inn



The Monnington Way, 1 mile long, created in 1641 AD


The Bredwardine Bridge over the river Wye


a tourist on the trail


a lamb in the fields


Where do we go from here?

Sheep awaiting a medical checkup


The river Wye from on high


Hill #1, 300 meters high


the mucky and pitted trail

Sculpture along the path in a golf course near Hay on Wye

coming into Hay on Wye, Wales

Our room at the Old Black Lion

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